Sahara Sunset

 We loaded up and headed toward the desert. The drive was breathtaking, winding roads up and down mountains and a stop at the Gorge of Todgha, with it's impressive rock walls surrounding a popular swimming river. We are here in the off season so we are seeing more ocals than tourists by far, and that's how I love it! So many families joyfully splashing around and laying on the rocks.

The goats did not care about me at all.

I tried to feed them grass that I had picked with some difficulty. No dice. The animals here are not part of the tourist industry, that much is clear lol.

Back in the car to a roadside lunch stop and so our driver could pop in the mosque to pray. It was the first meal here I completely finished, an incredible chicken olive lemon tagine.

Then on to the desert... we picked up some beer and our driver found us a cafe we could drink it at... on the top floor away from all customers and very secretively, ha. It was cold and deli cious. We were killing time to arrive at the desert closer to sunset so we didn't incinerate upon arrivall.

We also hit a police checkpoint which involves either paying or letting them check your vehicle for every safety measure ever. We chose the latter and the police offered Chris a sip of espresso. Chris drank the whole shot fast and they had a good laugh at us.

We decided last minute on an ATV tour through the dunes before the camel ride and it was one of the best things I've ever tried!

sand angel.

I was so proud of myself for driving all over the sand dunes and having a great time but when it was done a young child hopped on my ATV and zoomed away with much more skill than I exhibited. 

Next was camels to our camp.. much bunpier and slower than the ATVs.

After a very long trek we arrived at our "camp" for the night, a luxtarsury experience unlike anything I've ever seen. Again, low season. We were the only guests. We were served a comically large dinner and then showered and watched the stars come out on blankets in the middle of nowhere. It was something I've always wanted to see and life delivered. I may have cried a little at the milky way.

"camping"

this was all for the 2 of us lol.

Slept like a baby, huge breakfast, then 4x4 to the driver. Currently on an 8 hour drive to Fez. 

Into the Atlas!

 We were picked up by Anwar and Assim to begin the journey into the mountains. It was an incredible drive.Most towns are clustered around water but some have run dry and life seems super hard there. It's much more conservative in the hills and the calls to prayer echo against the jutting stones and structures. It's ethereal.

Assim and Chris

We stopped at a few lookouts and then the town if Ait Ben Haddou, founded about a thousand years ago. It was incredible and humbling but so enraging to see the rivers that have all run dry in the last 10 years only. They speak sadly of climate change and my heart broke a little more each dry town we passed.

The river never reaches the banks anymore.

The town was still standing and still populated.

Please note that I did buy a hat. Chris did not. Exhibit A.

Our guides family has lived there for many generations. He still maintains a residence there but has kids and there's no school so splits his time.

We did witness a pack of wild dogs get very aggressive with a man and a toddler but he got away. Gonna pay a lot of attention to the dogs now.

Back to the car and on to Assims mothers for lunch.. wow. His aunt is the best cook. And there are no small portions here. I've tried. It's impossible.

salad and fruit salad and zaalouk

2 chickens. Stuffed with rice. for 4 of us.

such a welcoming and gorgeous home.

a little dessert lol. Everything grown here.

Assim stayed with his family and Anwar took us on to the High Atlas mountains. 

This is just a normal town in the middle of nowhere.

We arrived 6 hours outside Marrakesh to Boumalen Dades at the prettiest hotel.. Across is an oasis of chirping crickets and frogs and bats and lush green and we saw a traffic jam caused by a baby donkey wandering down the road. Dinner was awesome but again so much food. And here we are, about to get a good nights sleep for tomorrows trek to the Sahara.

Last day in Marrakech and onwards

 We had a day with no plans. We woke at the riyad and had another excellent breakfast and wandered off to museums. We went to the Museum of Intangible Cultural Heritage, because what an interesting name! 

It was well named, dedicated to capturing the history of the feeling that Jemaael-Fnaa square provides.

Founded in 1070 as a military muster point, it developed into the hub of Marrakech over time and ... well you can wiki it. That's a lot of ground to cover. But I learned a ton

Looovvvveeee

I liked these judgy cows.

From there I learned of the Perfume Museum which was.. well, meh.

Then off to Museum Mondes des Arts... dude. jewellry and clothing from all reaches of the middle and far east from times long ago.. it was really cook seeing how trade routes influenced design style. Here's some bling photos. Also, it was air conditioned and that became important as the day hit 40 degrees.

so much bling and detailed explanations in the QR codes.

that's a necklace...

jewelled gun stock because.. fabulous.

Dinner was street food.. the "sandwiches" were incredible.

Burnt my face in this but it was worth it!

tried for the royal lamb that's cooked in coals in the basement of this ,any story building but they were out of it already.

Shawarma.

Harira soup.

Watched Argentina kick ass at the only place we could find that served alcohol and went home to bed. Sadly said goodbye to the absolutely flawless Riad Ilayka and began the next adventure.